III. PREPARING A STUDY SKIN
In this lab you will work in pairs to produce a museum mount of
a mouse. You may prepare this as either a standard stuffed
"study skin" or as a posed taxidermy mount.
1) Obtain the
ex-mouse from the instructor.
2) Skin the mouse,
using the following procedure. As you work, immediately clean
any blood or bodily fluids off of the fur on the outside of the
skin, by carefully rubbing it with DRY cornmeal. If
absolutely necessary, you can gently wipe the fur with a damp
cloth, but only if you immediately soak up any excess water with
DRY cornmeal. Do
not allow the skin to stay wet, as this will cause severe
shrinkage as it later dries.
a) Using a pair of scissors make a ventral midline
incision from the base of the chin to the base of the tail.
Be careful to cut only through the skin, NOT through the body
wall.
b) Make additional ventral incisions laterally from
the midline to the elbow or ankle of each lateral appendage.
c) Carefully cut through the elbow and ankle joints,
as well as the vertebral column at the base of the tail, making
sure that you do not cut through the skin.
d) Using blunt dissection wherever possible,
separate the skin from the underlying tissues of each appendage.
e) Working from the ventral incision around each
side to the dorsal midline, free the skin from the trunk
musculature. Use blunt dissection wherever possible, and
turn the skin (pelt) inside-out as you go. When you
complete this step the skin should be attached to the innards of
the mouse only at the head.
f) This is the difficult part. Carefully work
forward from the shoulders and neck to detach the skin from the
head. The carefully cut through the base of each ear, so
that the external ear (pinna) remains part of the pelt. Cut
carefully around each eye socket to preserve the eyelid
structure. At the end of the snout you will have to cut
through the underlying bones so that the external nose remains
part of the pelt. Be careful not to cut the whiskers.
g) In the region of the mouth you have the option of
keeping the front incisors as part of the pelt, or detaching
them.
h) When you have the entire pelt detached, carefully
rub the inside with DRY borax, to remove the underlying fat.
If you skip this step, the skin will rot, rather than drying
correctly.
i) Finally, pack the entire detached pelt in DRY
borax for at least 30 minutes. This will help preserve the
skin.
3) When you are ready to complete your study skin or
taxidermy mount, unpack the skin and BRUSH all of the borax off
of both sides. It is important that you NOT GET THE SKIN
OR THE BORAX WET AT ANY POINT IN THIS PROECESS.
4) If you wish to
produce a simple study skin, simply turn the pelt
right-side-out, stuff it with cotton, and sew it up. You
nay choose to sew the mouth shut. Position the forelegs so
that they extend to the front and the hindlegs and tail so that
they extend behind the animal. Set the stuffed skin in a
secure location and allow it to dry for at least 4 days.
5) If you wish to produce a taxidermy mount, follow
the steps below.
a) Choose a realistic (or unrealistic) pose for your
animal.
b) Use a single long piece of green florist's wire
to construct a frame that approximates the pose
for the trunk and upper part of each limb. Your frame
should have a single wire that will extend at least one inch
into tail and a doubled wire that extends one half inch
into the head. Twisted wires work well as limbs.
c) Carefully shape a solid piece of foam into the
shape and size of the head. Color two of the glass beads
with fingernail polish. When the beads dry, position them as
eyes in the foam form.
d) Turn the pelt right-side-out and stuff the head of
the pelt with the foam model core, carefully positioning the eye
beads.
e) Thread the tail wire down the spinal canal of the
tail. Skewer the foam head core on the head wires.
If the wire is too long, extract it and cut it to a better
length. Position the remainder of the wire frame within the trunk and
limbs.
f) Fill in the trunk and proximal limbs with
cotton as you sew up the original incisions.
g) Carefully make any last adjustments to the body,
head (especially ears), limb, and tail positions, then set the
completed mount aside to dry for at least 4 days.
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